15 June, 2018: After an early-morning flight from Zagreb to Lisbon, I took the metro to the train station and then hopped on a train south to Faro. I had purchased my ticket online in advance, and as a result had found a special advance-purchase fare in first class that was cheaper than the normalContinue reading “They used to send sick people to the seaside for a reason, right?”
Category Archives: Notes from Abroad
Through Montenegro and on to Croatia
After my hike in the alps and my week in Shkodër, it was time to head north, back to the European Union with the eventual goal of Zagreb and a flight to Portugal.
The Albanian Alps, Part 3: Meeting Horses On Their Way to Church
02 June, 2018: When I woke up I was slightly sore, but eager to start the day. It was beautiful and sunny and I had several hours to kill before my ride back to Shkodër, so I started off with a walk.
The Albanian Alps, Part 2: Up and Up and Up
Up to the neck 01 June, 2018: I woke up early and headed over to the dining room for breakfast, which consisted of eggs, hot dog links, and bread with butter, homemade jam, and cheese. Having skipped a proper dinner the night before, and with a long day of hiking ahead, I enjoyed it veryContinue reading “The Albanian Alps, Part 2: Up and Up and Up”
The Albanian Alps, Part 1: I Went to the Accursed Mountains and I Never Wanted to Leave
At the very beginning of June I hiked the Albanian Alps, also known as the Accursed Mountains. It was one of the more challenging hikes I’ve done, and it was absolutely gorgeous. Along the way I met some of the most welcoming people I’ve encountered anywhere in the world.
Outside Tirana: Two More Stops in Northern Albania
I spent the majority of my time in Albania in Tirana, but I did venture beyond for 10 days or so. I’ve been told repeatedly that southern Albania is where it’s at — pristine beaches, even fewer tourists, etc — but I didn’t make it that direction on this trip. Instead, I spent a dayContinue reading “Outside Tirana: Two More Stops in Northern Albania”
Weird and Wonderful Albania
I spent a month in Albania this spring (May 2018), and I loved it. Because it was almost completely isolated under an extremely repressive communist regime from the 1950s through the early 1990s, it looks and feels like a slightly alternate universe. Those who are up on their Albanian history, skip ahead; I knew nothingContinue reading “Weird and Wonderful Albania”
New Favorite Mountain Fortress
03 May, 2018: On my third day in Bar, Montenegro, I took a local bus to Stari Bar, which is the old town in the mountains about a half hour from the port town of [new] Bar. It has a large and well-preserved ruined fortress: